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VALENCIA, A GASTRONOMICAL ADVENTURE

COLMAN ANDREWS of Saveur Magazine has graciously allowed exerpts of his fine article on Cuisine in their June-July issue to be used .  His coverage of cuisine and the areas of Valencia is first class.

The “cool” and au courant stage of restaurants in Valencia today is upbeat and exciting. La Albufera, a marshland area close to Valencia is the location of BARACCA DE L’OLIVERO where Chef MARIANO MARCO grills a tempting variety of food from the sea and vegetables.  In Grao, the old fishermen’s quarter of Valencia, you will find CA’ SENTO, featuring dishes such as sea dates, baby greens, scallops, crayfish, pork and even Campari ice cream.  The rich history dating to 138 B. C. founded by the Romans was later influenced by Visigoths, Arabs, Catalans and French.  This city is well chosen for the 2007 America’s Cup Defense by Alinghi of Switzerland. Furious preparations are underway for port facilities and the expected thousands wishing to see the first European Defense of the Cup in 150 years.

Places to visit include the Longa de los Mercaderes (silk exchange); Las Torres Serranos, the Cathedral, the Mercado Central (outdoor market area) and Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Arts and Sciences).  This was designed by the world famous architect, Santiago Calatrava. EMILI BERMELL reigns over nearby fine restaurant Ca’n Bermell.  A tapas style old bar is a must at Casa Montana in Grao. All Valencian specialties are there.  Go to the converted farmhouse La Matandeta, do not miss their paella!  Drive a short way to Casa Ripoll for all local examples of Valencia cuisine. Try Bar Pilar too.  HUGO ROYO, an obvious romantic suggests his BURDEOS IN LOVE restaurant where you can fall in love over wine.  VICENTE TORRES, Chef at LA SUCURSAL at the Modern Art Museum features exotic seafood preparations and vegetables fancy and perfect.  Lastly on this list is EL ALTO DE COLON, Chef QUIQUE BARELLA SERVES in the finest of décor and furnishings an equally matching menu.
 

courtesy of
SAVEUR

THE GUIDE
V A L E N C I A

Country Code: 34
Exchange Rate: 1 Euro = $1.30


Dinner with drinks, tax & tip:
Expensive - Over $50
Moderate - $25-50
Inexpensive - Under $25


Where to Stay

AD HOC HOTEL Boix 4 (96/391 91 40; fax 391 36 67; www.adhochoteles.com). Rates: $150 Double.  A modest boutique hostelry in a restored 19th-century house near the Jardin del Turia, offering 28 small rooms with period furnishings.

HOTEL ABBA ACTEON Vicente Beltran Grimal 2 (96/331 07 07; fax 330 22 30). Rates: $100 Double.  A modern 187 room hotel near the City of the Arts and Sciences.

MELIA VALENCIA PALACE paseo Alameda 32 (96/337 50 37; fax 337 44 32; www.solmelia.com). Rates: $140-170.  Alongside the Jardin del Turia, a modern business oriented hotel with 230 rooms and 18 suites, some on the Royal Service floor equipped with wi-fi and videoconferencing facilities.

PARADOR EL SALER avenida de los Pinares 151, El Saler (96/161 11 86; www.parador.es) Rates: $176-202.  On the edge of the Albufera, a comfortable 58 room beachfront inn - part of the admirable government-run parador system - next to an 18 hole golf course.

Where to Eat


EL ALTO DE COLON Mercado de Colon, Jorge Juan 19 (96/353 03 37); closed Saturday lunch and Sundays.  Lunch and dinner: expensive.  Probably Valencia's most elegant restaurant, serving first-rate contemporary Mediterranean fare as attractive and finely made as the dining room itself.

BAR PILAR Moro Zeit (96/391 04 97).  Tapas: inexpensive.  A lively, old-style place; numerous tapas are served, but the clochinas (Mediterranean mussels) are essential.

BURDEOS IN LOVE del Mar 4, (96/391 43 50).  Closed Saturday lunch and Sundays.  Dinner: moderate.  Imaginative food, sometimes overly ambitious but often successful, in an attractive, wine-themed room.

CA'N BERMELL Santo Tomas 18 (96/391 02 88).  Closed Sundays and Monday lunch.  Lunch or dinner: expensive.  Stylish, unpretentious cooking with touches of luxury (truffles, foie gras) in pleasant surroundings.

CASA MONTANA Jose Benlliure 69 (96/367 23 14)  Closed Sunday evening and Mondays.  Lunch or dinner: moderate.  A must for wine lovers, with a large, well-chosen list of good wines from Valencia and elsewhere in Spain (and beyond), plus top-notch tapas and good, simple main dishes.

CASA RIPOLL paseo Maritimo de Valencia, Modulo 7 (96/355 00 22).  Closed Wednesdays.  Lunch or dinner: moderate.  Nothing special, but a nice place to stop on a sunny day for well prepared Valencian specialities.

CA' SENTO Mendez Nunez 17 (96/330 17 75).   Closed Sundays and Monday Dinner.  Lunch or dinner: expensive.  One of Spain's best restaurants, with deftly crafted contemporary food based on the best products.

LA MATANDETA carretera Alfafar-El Saler, Alfafar (96/211 21 84).  Closed Monday lunch.  Lunch or dinner.  moderate.  Real paellas and other rice dishes, plus more sophisticated fare, served in an Albufera farmhouse.

LA SUCURSAL Instituto Valenciano de Arte Moderna, Guillen de Castro 118.  (96/374 66 65).  Lunch or dinner: expensive.  A handsome restaurant serving some of the city's most consistently well-made modern-style food.

Where to Drink


ACUARIUM GranVia Marques del Turia 57 (96/351 00 40).  A nautical-themed bar serving snacks (like warm Spanish almonds and superlative anchovy-stuffed olives) and what are arguably Valencia's best cocktails; try the very icy "dry" (i.e., martini)

CAFE SANT JAUME Caballeros 51 (96/391 24 01).  An old, elaborately decorated pharmacy turned into a bustling little bar.  Try the agua de Valencia.

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